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5 Best Ways to Combat Slugs and Snails in Your UK Garden – The Organic Way Plus a bonus tip that might just surprise the heck out of you, Goldilocks and the three bears. ??? Slugs and snails (molluscs) are every gardener’s nemesis, devouring tender seedlings and leaving plants in tatters. While chemical solutions may be effective, they can harm beneficial wildlife and disrupt the natural balance of your garden. Fortunately, there are several organic methods to keep these slimy pests at bay. Here are the five best ways to combat slugs and snails naturally and sustainably. 1. Encourage Natural Predators Nature provides its own pest control in the form of predators that feed on slugs and snails. By creating a wildlife-friendly garden, you can invite these beneficial creatures to take up residence. Encourage Slow Worms. Slow worms are our native legless lizards, here in the UK and Europe. Harmless and shy they are often present in a garden without the gardener even knowing. They like warm places to bask and shelter in. Something as simple as a tin sheet or square of rubber matting, such as a floor mat from a vehicle, or a scrap of butryl pond liner, can be left in a sunny corner surrounded by tall grass or plants. Slow worms will shelter beneath this, keeping warm and feeding on the slugs that are similarly attracted to the shelter. They can live up to thirty years and a good eighty percent of their diet is slugs. Slow worm Anguis fragilis basking in bracken. Providing 30 years of natural slug control. Hedgehogs : These spiky nocturnal creatures love munching on slugs and snals. Providing hedgehog houses, piles of leaves, and shallow water dishes can encourage them into your garden. You might not see them directly but they leave fairly obvious signs that they are foraging in your garden. Check your lawn for small dark pellets of poop. Frogs and Toads : A small pond or damp area will attract amphibians, which are excellent slug hunters. But even without a pond, amphibians are great wanderers and spend plenty of time plodding around at night or in damp weather. If you have a good supply of slugs and snails these helpful herps* will hang around for the buffet. Common frog Rana temporaria. Ground Beetles and Birds : Leave leaf litter on beds and borders over the autumn and winter. Not only does this act as a mulch, protecting the soil and roots of your plants from harsh frosts, but it allows soil organisms to remain active for longer. Such as worms acting to enrich the soil by dragging the leaves underground, where they decompose and release nutrients into the soil. Slugs and snails will forage in the leaf litter beneath the surface making them easy to find for robins, blackbirds and thrushes. Encourage birds by providing natural habitat features such as wild flower borders and dead hedges for them to forage and nest in. Blackbirds and thrushes are very good at keeping your snail populations in check. 2. Use Physical Barriers Creating barriers around plants can prevent slugs and snails from reaching them. Several natural and effective materials can be used: Crushed Eggshells : The sharp edges deter slugs from crossing. Copper Tape : Slugs and snails dislike the electric charge created when they touch copper, making this an effective deterrent. Wool Pellets : These absorb moisture and irritate slugs, discouraging them from crossing. Sheep fleece laid out as a mulch over beg plots is an excellent weed supressant as well as acting as a barrier to slugs and snails. It's really cheap to get from local farms as well, as it has pretty much no worth at all. Sand and Grit : A rough-textured surface can deter slugs, as they prefer smooth, damp environments. 3. Create Beer Traps A tried-and-tested organic method, beer traps lure slugs and snails into a container filled with beer, where they drown. Here’s how to make one: Bury a shallow container in the soil, with the rim just above ground level. Fill it halfway with beer (cheap lager or ale works best). Empty and refill every few days as needed. Slugs are attracted to the yeast in beer, making this an effective way to reduce their numbers. Emptying these traps is a pretty disgusting chore to be honest, so I don't use them. I have a much more user friendly way of controlling slugs and snails. Porridge Oats. The ultimate in organic mollusc control! A Bold Statement! Do you use slug pellets? Are they supposedly organic? Would YOU eat them? No, I bet you wouldn't. I eat the pellets I use. Porridge oats work very effectively in controlling slugs and snails. Place dry oats under a slate or other cover in the garden. When the slug or snail eats the oats (which they will) the oats swell up. This disables the mollusc and they cease to exist. I'm trying to be as delicate in my wording as possible here. If any other predator up the food chain then devours the deceased mollusc then they are unharmed. The oats have already swollen and the slug or snail isn't filled with toxins. Slugs and Oats. That well known duo. 4. Introduce Nematodes Biological control is an excellent, natural way to keep slug populations in check. Nematodes (microscopic parasitic worms) are a highly effective solution. How They Work : These beneficial organisms are applied to the soil and infect slugs, causing them to stop feeding and eventually die. Application : Nematodes need warm, moist soil to be effective, so apply them in spring and autumn when soil temperatures are above 5°C. Where to Buy : Available online and at garden centres, nematodes are a chemical-free, targeted way to deal with slugs. Nematode in close up. 5. Practice Smart Planting Some plants are naturally resistant to slug and snail damage, and using them strategically in your garden can help minimize the problem. Mollusc-Resistant Plants : Ferns, lavender, rosemary, and foxgloves are less appealing to molluscs. Sacrificial Planting : Grow highly attractive plants, like lettuce or marigolds, in a separate area to lure slugs and snails away from your main crops. Raised Beds and Containers : Growing plants in raised beds or pots can help protect them from ground-dwelling slugs. These raised pots and troughs are easy t ofix copper tape to. As mentioned above. Conclusion Combating slugs and snails organically requires a multi-pronged approach, but with persistence, you can protect your plants without resorting to harmful chemicals. By encouraging natural predators, using barriers, setting traps, introducing nematodes, and practicing smart planting, your garden can thrive while staying in harmony with nature. As with anything, it's all about balance. Create a natural habitat and the ecosystem that developes within it will maintain itself. The further from nature your garden is the harder you will have to work to keep it in order. Go wild. Try these methods and enjoy a healthier, more sustainable garden! *Herps is the abreviation of herpetofauna or herptiles which are collective terms for reptiles and amphibians.

Captivating Garden Spaces Pollinators play a vital role in the reproduction of many plants we rely on for food and beauty. By selecting native plants, you can cultivate a welcoming habitat right in your backyard. Let's explore the benefits of pollinator-friendly gardens, identify the best native plants, and delve into effective maintenance tips for nurturing your natural oasis. Benefits of Pollinator-Friendly Gardens When planning your garden, focusing on beauty or food production is common. However, pollinator-friendly gardens provide numerous advantages that extend beyond simple aesthetics. One primary benefit is the support given to our ecosystem. In fact, about 75% of global crops depend on animal pollination. This includes popular food groups like fruits, nuts and berries. The grass based crops like wheat, barley and oats are wind pollinated . By encouraging pollinators, you contribute significantly to local and global food production. Native plants also have an edge; they are well-suited to local climates. These plants require less water, reduce the need for fertilizers, and lead to lower maintenance costs. For example, native plants can reduce water usage by 30% to 50% , compared to non-native species under similar conditions. Additionally, a vibrant garden positively impacts mental health. Research suggests that spending just 20 minutes in nature can lower stress levels and enhance mood. The beauty of the flowers and the presence of pollinators can turn any outdoor space into a calming retreat. Unless you have a phobia of buzzing insects and or butterlies and moths. In which case I would suggest some therapy to get over that, as phobias can be debilitating. Top 3 Native Plants for Attracting Pollinators Now that you're on board with the idea of a native plant garden, you may wonder which ones to include. Here’s a selection of my top 3 native plants that will attract pollinators and thrive in your space: 1. Field scabious Eye-level view of vibrant field scabious in a sunny herbaceous perennial border. Field Scabious Field scabious, scientifically known as Knautia arvensis , is a captivating wildflower that adds charm and beauty to meadows and gardens. This perennial plant is known for its unique, rounded flower heads and its ability to attract a variety of pollinators. Characteristics Flowers: The flower heads of field scabious are typically a soft lavender or pale blue color, creating a striking visual display. Each head is made up of numerous small florets, which bloom from late spring to early autumn. Height: The plant usually grows between 60 to 90 cm (24 to 36 inches) tall, with sturdy stems that can withstand wind and rain. Leaves: The leaves are lance-shaped and deeply lobed, providing a lush green backdrop to the delicate flowers. Habitat and Growth Conditions Soil: Field scabious is adaptable and can thrive in a variety of soil types, including sandy and clay soils, as long as they are well-drained. Sunlight: This plant prefers full sun to partial shade, making it a versatile choice for different garden settings. Watering: Once established, field scabious is drought-tolerant and requires minimal watering. Ecological Benefits Pollinator Attraction: The vibrant flowers of field scabious are especially attractive to bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects, making it an excellent choice for pollinator gardens. Biodiversity: By planting field scabious, gardeners can support local ecosystems and promote biodiversity in their gardens. Care and Maintenance Pruning: Deadheading spent flowers can encourage prolonged blooming and prevent self-seeding if desired. Fertilization: Generally, field scabious does not require fertilization, but a light application of compost in spring can promote healthy growth. In conclusion, field scabious is a resilient and beautiful wildflower that not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of gardens but also plays a vital role in supporting pollinator populations. Its low maintenance requirements and adaptability make it an excellent choice for both novice and experienced gardeners. 2. Greater knapweed Greater knapweed flowers open up from fascinating cone shaped buds. Greater knapweed, scientifically known as Centaurea scabiosa , is a perennial flowering plant that belongs to the Asteraceae family. Native to the UK, Europe and parts of Asia, Physical Characteristics Height: Greater knapweed typically grows between 30 to 60cm tall. Leaves: The leaves are deeply lobed, with a grayish-green color, and can grow up to 6 inches long. Flowers: The plant produces large, thistle-like flower heads, usually in shades of purple, pink, or white, which bloom from late spring to early autumn. Ecological Role Greater knapweed plays a significant role in its ecosystem, particularly in attracting a variety of pollinators. Its vibrant flowers are known to draw in bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. Conclusion Greater knapweed is admired for its striking appearance and its ability to attract pollinators. An excellent choice to add into a perennial border. 3 Vipers bugloss Vipers bugloss produces a multitude of vibrant flowers. Vipers Bugloss in UK Gardens Vipers bugloss, scientifically known as Echium vulgare , is a stunning wildflower that has gained popularity in UK gardens for its vibrant blooms and ecological benefits. This biennial plant is characterized by its tall spikes adorned with clusters of bright blue flowers, which can also be purple or pink. Its unique appearance and ability to attract pollinators make it a valuable addition to any garden. Ecological Benefits One of the primary reasons gardeners are drawn to vipers bugloss is its role in supporting local wildlife. The flowers are rich in nectar, making them a favorite among various pollinators. They are one of only a few plants which replace their nectar at a very rapid pace, allowing bees and other pollinators to return to the same flower on a plant time after time in a short period. including: Bees Butterflies Hoverflies. Garden Aesthetics Vipers bugloss adds a striking visual element to gardens. Its tall, elegant spikes can reach heights of up to 1 meter, creating a dramatic focal point. The vibrant blue flowers bloom from late spring to early autumn, providing a long-lasting display of color. This makes it an excellent choice for: Wildflower gardens Pollinator-friendly spaces Naturalistic landscaping Growing Conditions Vipers bugloss is relatively easy to grow and can thrive in a variety of conditions. Here are some key points to consider: Soil: Prefers well-drained soil but can tolerate poorer soils. Sunlight: Enjoys full sun and can withstand dry conditions. Maintenance: Low maintenance, requiring minimal watering once established. Conclusion Incorporating vipers bugloss into UK gardens not only enhances the visual appeal but also promotes biodiversity by attracting essential pollinators. Its resilience and ease of care make it a fantastic choice for both novice and experienced gardeners looking to create a vibrant, eco-friendly space. While this short list isn't the bee all and end all (do you see what I did there?) These three species offer a great abundance of nectar rich flowers over several months. When incorporated into a border or meadow style planting scheme, with a multitude of other native plants, your garden will become a haven for all things six legged. Tips for Maintaining a Garden that Supports Pollinators Creating a stunning garden is just the hard part. Maintenance is easy and limited. Here are some practical tips to ensure your garden continues to be a refuge for pollinators: 1. Provide a Variety of Plants Diversifying plant species enhances the garden’s appeal to different pollinators. Planting a mix that blooms in spring, summer, and autumn ensures a continuous food source. For example, combining the above mentioned plants can provide nectar throughout the growing season. 2. Avoid Pesticides Natural pest control methods are best for protecting precious pollinators.Going native will attract beneficial insects like ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies. These alternatives can help maintain a balanced ecosystem without jeopardizing the health of pollinators. 3. Create Habitat Structure Pollinators require safe spaces to nest and rest. Incorporate elements like brush piles, bee hotels, and areas with bare soil to encourage nesting. This diversity creates a strong habitat that welcomes various pollinators. 4. Water Source Pollinators, like humans, need hydration. Adding a shallow birdbath or small pond provides them with a safe drinking space. Ensure they can rest while accessing water to make it inviting and safe. Nature before neat. Dont be too neat and tidy. Allow the odd pile of cut material to gather under a hedge or in a sheltered sunny spot. Leave those taller perennials to stand over winter. Rake the leaves from the paths, patios and lawns but leave them on the borders and beds as a mulch and refuge for smaller animals and insects. Transform Your Space into a Pollinator Paradise Creating a buzz with native plants is essential for nurturing our environment and enriching our lives. By attracting pollinators to your garden, you add vibrant colors and delightful scents and support a thriving ecosystem that benefits your surroundings. With the right selection of native plants and mindful maintenance, you can cultivate a welcoming space for these busy helpers. Grab your gardening tools, get planting, and watch your outdoor space evolve into an enchanting haven for pollinators!

The largest native   terrestrial  reptile in the UK. I have to include those points to deter the keyboard warriors from highlighting that we occasionally get turtles visiting out shores and there are two well established populations of aesculapian snakes in the UK now. London’s Regents Park and in and around Colwyn Bay. These are larger than grass snakes and are the snakes seen on all ambulances and hospital signs, wrapped around a staff. Yeah, that one. So our native grass snake Natrix natrix helvetica, has, in days gone by, been recorded as obtaining lengths in excess of two meters. That’s six feet, for those of you reading this in the nineteen fifties. A beautiful grass snake found in Dorset. Photo J R Grundy. They are typical colubrids with large round eyes, unlike the adder or Reform mp’s who have slit pupils. A distinct neck, slender body, keeled scales, which give them a rough feel and a delightful checker board pattern on their undersides. The face is heavily marked with black and cream upper lips and Alice Cooper make up under the eyes. All these features make the grass snake a distinctly attractive beast. The classic cream, yellow and black collar gives it its other common name collard snake. Certainly across mainland Europe they are referred to by this feature. German Ringelnatter, Dutch Ringslang, French Couleuvre à collier, Italian Biscia dal collare, Spanish (Castilian) Culebra de collar, Basque Suge gorbataduna. You get the picture. Feeding on fish, amphibians and small mammals these inoffensive reptiles can become quite habituated to human activity and are often encountered in garden ponds and compost heaps. Compost heaps, I hear you cry. Yes, indeed. In fact any warm mound of vegetation can offer the grass snake just what it needs in a habitat. Unlike our other native reptiles, the common lizard, slow worm, smooth snake and adder, which give birth to live young, the grass snake relies on a natural incubator in which to lay it’s eggs. Hence their affiliation with humous. Only the grass snake and sand lizard lay eggs. Grass pile nest heap for snakes with a tarpaulin cover for protection. Photo J R Grundy Which brings us nicely to the point of this article. As gardeners we are always left with the issue of what to do with our arisings. That's the posh and often regarded as annoying word for waste products. How your piles can benefit grass snakes Well, good people, worry not. There is a way we can help our herpetofauna. (Collective term for amphibians and reptiles).  A well placed heap of slowly decomposing grass can provide grass snakes with the perfect nesting opportunity. Pile your mowings in a sunny corner, beneath a hedge, tree line or against a bank. Not too close to a water source, to avoid nutrient leaching. Other wildlife will benefit from these piles as well as the snakes. Other reptiles will of course enjoy the warmth, shelter and foraging within the heap. Small mammals and invertebrates and of course amphibians. In areas where predation of the eggs may be an issue, from badgers, pheasants, chickens etc, a tarpaulin placed over the heap can help protect from curious claws and teeth. Some fresh grass can be mown (with a scythe preferrably) in late May and placed in a heap a meter square and no more than fifty centimetres high. This is then left, with a tarp over the top. Hopefully within a few short years loyal female grass snakes will use your heap for nesting purposes. By mid June they will have all deposited clutches of soft shelled, grape sized eggs in sticky clusters. The adult snakes remain in the warmth of the nest heap. This is not out of some nurturing parental behaviour but purely because of the security and temperature. Also the heap attracts amphibians, which allows the snakes to feed without having to risk predation themselves out in the big bad world. The distinct collar and Alice Cooper eye makeup set the grass snake apart from our other native snakes. Photo J R Grundy. So, I’m sure we can all find a few meters of grass in the corner of a meadow or lawn somewhere that needs a little snip in May. Pile it up somewhere appropriate and leave it be. By the end of August most, if not all the eggs will have hatched and the young snakes will have upped and left. As will the adults. There is a temptation by some in conservation circles to top up the heaps to help maintain the heat. While this is done with good intentions it does run the risk of squashing the eggs. They are laid close to the surface and as a result can suffer if too much weight is added. As mentioned, reptile eggs are soft shelled, not hard like birds. Grass snakes, like all native reptiles, are in decline from habitat loss, predation, persecution from idiots and loss of nesting sites. In County Durham and Northumberland for example, no confirmed sightings have been recorded since 2007. So any effort we can make to assist these stunning creatures would be well received. Maybe your local wildlife trust would be happy to have some free snake nesting material. Perhaps you could contact your county amphibian and reptile group to assist with some habitat management. Local groups can be found listed in the ARG UK website. www.arguk.org/get-involved/local-groups . My own back garden in May. Three Ponds, wild flowers, log piles and dead hedges. All perfect habitat. Photo J R Grundy. Gardens make up a massive amount of land in the UK and this is increasing year on year with the pressures from new housing projects. So as we take away, so should we give back. Ponds are great for providing a food source for grass snakes. Log piles and stone heaps are essential places to hibernate and take shelter. As well as being hugely important to a host of small animals. But vital to the grass snakes survival is the provision of nesting sites. So please consider providing a simple nest heap. All animals are important in an ecosystem. Without one level in the food web it may well collapse and reptiles and amphibians are regarded as key indicators of a healthy biodiverse habitat. They are postioned in that mid level where they prey upon many smaller animals, including some pests, as well as being preyed upon themselves by larger mammals and birds in the chain. So lets do our part. Go out there and get grubby. Build some heaps.

Creating a hedgerow in your garden is not just a delightful way to enhance your outdoor space; it also plays a vital role in supporting local wildlife. Imagine stepping out into a vibrant, green landscape alive with buzzing bees, chirping birds, and fluttering butterflies. A well-planned hedgerow can serve as a natural haven, providing essential habitats and food sources for various species. In this guide, you will learn how to design a wildlife-friendly hedgerow that enriches both your garden and the ecosystem. Why Choose Mixed Native Hedging Plants? Opting for a mix of native hedging plants is a smart gardening strategy. Native plants are already adapted to your local climate, allowing them to thrive without excessive care. In fact, research shows that native plants require up to 50% less water than non-native varieties, making them easier to maintain. A diverse mix offers different heights and colors throughout the year, creating a visually appealing backdrop. More importantly, this variety boosts biodiversity. For example, a hedge composed of hawthorn, blackthorn, and wild rose can attract a wide assortment of insects and birds. Studies reveal that gardens with native plants can support twice as many bird species compared to those with non-native plants, contributing to a healthier environment right in your backyard. Selecting the Right Plants When choosing your native hedging plants, it's essential to consider your garden's unique conditions. Some plants excel in wet soil, while others prefer drier areas. Getting to know your space ensures that your hedgerow flourishes. A diverse flowering time is also crucial. This keeps your hedgerow vibrant across all seasons. Here are three excellent native hedging plant options found in the UK: Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) : This plant is characterized by its beautiful white spring flowers and striking red berries in autumn, offering sustenance for countless birds. Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) : With its dramatic spiky branches and fragrant flowers, blackthorn is a magnet for bees and provides tasty sloes for wildlife. Wild Rose (Rosa canina) : Known for its lovely pink blooms, wild roses not only attract insects but also offer nutrients for birds during the winter months. By incorporating these plants into your hedgerow, you will create a lively, multi-layered habitat teeming with life. Close-up view of flowering wild rose plant. Ground Cover with Hedgerow Perennials Enhancing your hedgerow with perennials adds ground cover and seasonal flair. These plants can fill in gaps, suppress weeds, and help retain soil moisture. Select perennials that bloom at different times to ensure continuous visual interest and provide nectar for pollinators. Here are three great options for hedgerow perennials: Wild Garlic (Allium ursinum) : This fragrant plant attracts pollinators and can be used in cooking, adding both utility and beauty. Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) : With its fluffy clusters of white flowers blooming in late summer, meadowsweet provides essential nectar for butterflies and bees. Campion (Silene dioica) : Its bright red flowers are not only eye-catching but also draw in beneficial insects, adding a pop of color to your hedgerow. By carefully selecting a variety of perennials, you will create a stunning outdoor display that changes with the seasons while benefiting local wildlife. Recently cut mixed native hedging plants in a garden setting. Care and Maintenance of Your Hedgerow To keep your wildlife-friendly hedgerow thriving, regular care and maintenance are essential. Here are some practical tips to ensure your plants remain in good shape: Formatve Pruning. In the first couple of years prune regularly to establish a thick wind resistant hedge. As in the image above, formative pruning can be carried out in late summer or autumn. This avoids disturbing nesting birds and in young hedge plants they wont have produced any fruit, so you wont be robbing the birds and small mammals of winter fodder. Prune Wisely : Aim to maintain the natural shape of your plants. Early spring is the best time to prune, to allow birds the chance to feed on any berries through the winter months. Pruning at this time also allows for healthy growth without stress. Plant in the Autumn or early spring. Newly planted hedges and perennials will need consistent watering, to establish their roots. Planting bare root saplings, one to two year old trees, will ensure rapid growth and plenty of natural rain water to help establish the young trees. Mulch : Using freshly cut meadow grass from your wildlife lawn to mulch between and around your young hedge plants will help retain moisture and inhibit weeds. When the leaves fall in autumn simply sweep them under the hedge as an extra mulch. With these straightforward maintenance strategies, you can cultivate a beautiful hedgerow that flourishes and supports wildlife. Transform Your Outdoor Space Establishing a wildlife-friendly hedgerow doesn't just beautify your garden; it enhances local ecosystems too. By incorporating mixed native hedging plants and underplanting with perennials, you will create a lively habitat that evolves through the seasons. Whether you are just starting out as a gardener or are looking for exciting new ideas, a mixed hedgerow offers abundant opportunities to connect with nature. With the right care, your hedgerow will provide a sanctuary for wildlife and joy for you and your family for years to come. Not only that but your hedge will last for hundreds of years longer than any fence. Winter berries will attract birds to your garden by providing a natural food source.

Creating a vibrant garden that attracts pollinators is rewarding, and it's vital for supporting local wildlife and ecosystems. Native plants are the unsung heroes of this endeavor. In the UK, these flowers have evolved alongside local pollinators, ensuring that your garden thrives while providing essential habitats and food sources. This guide offers practical steps to design a pollinator-friendly garden you can enjoy while helping the environment. Understanding Pollinators and Their Needs Pollinators, like bees, butterflies, and hoverflies, are essential for many plants and crops, enabling growth and fruiting. By understanding what these creatures need, you can create an environment for their success. Pollinators are drawn to specific plants based on color, scent, and the type of nectar they produce. For instance, research shows that bees are most attracted to blue, purple, and yellow flowers. In addition, native plants require less maintenance and water, making them a sustainable choice. For example, studies indicate that gardens with at least 30% native plants see a 50% increase in pollinator visits. Selecting Native Plants for Your Garden Now that you understand the importance of native plants, let's explore some excellent choices for creating a pollinator-friendly space: Wildflowers : Choose a variety of wildflowers such as cornflowers, poppies, and bluebells. These flowers provide nectar and pollen from early spring through late summer. A garden with a healthy mix can attract up to 25 different bee species! Herbs : Many culinary herbs like lavender, thyme, and mint benefit pollinators. When allowed to flower, these plants not only create beautiful displays but can also attract butterflies and bees, greatly enhancing garden activity. Grasses and Meadow Plants : Incorporate flowering meadow plants alongside grasses. Species like clover and yarrow can convert typical lawns into stunning habitats that support a wealth of pollinators. Just adding a few clover patches can increase bee populations significantly. Aim for diversity when selecting your plants. A mixture of flowering times and shapes will create a robust ecosystem, ensuring that something is always in bloom. A beautiful mix of native wildflowers and exotic perennials in one of my customers gardens. Creating the Right Environment In addition to selecting the right plants, you need to create an environment that supports pollinators. Here are some essential elements to keep in mind: Sunlight : Most pollinators prefer sunny spots. Aim for areas that receive at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day. These warm environments encourage activity and foraging. Water Sources : Pollinators need water for hydration. Add shallow dishes or bird baths filled with water, making sure to include stones or marbles so they can safely land. Shelter : Include natural features like logs, leaf piles, and shrubs in your garden. These features provide essential protection against harsh weather and predators, making for a safe habitat. Implementing Sustainable Gardening Practices A pollinator-friendly garden pairs well with sustainable gardening practices. Here are some straightforward tips to begin: Pesticide-Free : Steer clear of pesticides and chemical fertilizers, as these can harm pollinators. Using organic methods for pest management is an effective alternative that won't disrupt the ecosystem. Mulching : Use organic mulch. It helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and offers a more appealing habitat for ground-nesting bees. Research suggests that well-mulched gardens can reduce insect pests by up to 50%. Companion Planting : Employ companion planting techniques to enhance your garden's biodiversity. Certain plants can repel harmful pests while attracting beneficial insects, creating a more robust and balanced ecosystem. Some plants also repell cats which you do not want in a wildlife friendly garden. Geranium macrorrhizum is great at this. Practicing sustainability not only helps pollinators but also transforms gardening into a more enriching experience. Designing Your Pollinator Garden Layout A thoughtful garden layout can maximize benefits for both plants and pollinators. Here’s how to create an effective structure for your garden: Create Clusters of Native Plants : Plant your native plants in clusters. This makes it easier for pollinators to locate food sources. Group plants with similar bloom times for visual impact and to provide continuous nourishment. Incorporate Layers : Use a range of plant heights to achieve a layered effect. Taller plants can shelter shorter ones, contributing to your garden's visual appeal and ecosystem diversity. Leave Space for Wild Areas : Allow some areas of your garden to remain wild. A patch of native flowers or a small shrub can create critical habitats for localized wildlife. Leaving 10-20% of your garden unmanaged can significantly benefit local species. Cornfield annuals providing a splash of colour. Maintenance Tips for Your Pollinator Garden After establishing your pollinator-friendly garden, maintenance is essential for ongoing success. Here are some simple tips to keep in mind: Do not tidy up too thoroughly in the autumn. A border planted up with perennials, be they native or exotic, can harbour many useful predatory insects and amphibians. Allow some leaf litter to remain in the borders. Maybe create a few strategic piles in a sunny spot. Conversly in a meadow planting scheme cut and remove the vegetation in autumn to reduce the nutrient build up in the soil. Native plants do not require rich fertile soils. Leave the arisings (waste material) in piles as refuge for insects and other small garden visitors. By monitoring and maintaining your garden, you can create a self-sustaining habitat that benefits local wildlife while enhancing your gardening experience. Final Thoughts Creating a pollinator-friendly garden with native plants is a gratifying venture that offers countless benefits. Enjoy the beauty of your garden while contributing to the conservation of vital pollinators and promoting biodiversity in your community. By incorporating native plants, providing essential resources, and employing sustainable gardening practices, you can transform your outdoor space into a thriving habitat for wildlife. Every small step counts in this journey, and together, we can nurture gardens that celebrate the delicate balance of nature while bringing joy to our lives. If our gardens can mimic natural meadows we can relax and enjoy. Photo by Fran Mudd Durham Dales Ecology.

Discover the enchanting world of scented flowers with these native UK herbaceous perennials. From the delicate sweetness of Woodruff and Sweet Woodruff to the timeless elegance of Lily of the Valley, these plants bring fragrance and beauty to any garden. Valerian illuminates at dusk with its scented white clusters of flowers. hile Herb Robert releases its pungent aroma when touched. Meadowsweet enchants with its honey-like scent, and Jacob's Ladder beckons with its clusters of blue bells. Marshmallow and Sweet Cicely add a touch of intrigue, while Betony graces the landscape with its regal purple spikes. Explore these scented wonders, tailor-made for different garden conditions, and let their perfumed allure transport you to a fragrant paradise. Woodruff (Galium odoratum) is a herbaceous perennial that thrives in shady areas with moist, well-drained soil. It forms a lush carpet of green foliage and small white flowers in late spring or early summer. Woodruff prefers partial to full shade and can tolerate dry shade once established. Sweet Woodruff (Asperula odorata) is a shade-loving plant that prefers moist, well-drained soil. It features delicate whorls of leaves and clusters of small white flowers with a sweet scent. It can tolerate dry shade and is an excellent choice for woodland gardens or under trees. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) is a classic woodland plant that thrives in partial to full shade. It has broad, lance-shaped leaves and produces fragrant, bell-shaped white flowers in late spring. It prefers moist, humus-rich soil and spreads slowly to form a dense ground cover. Common Valerian Valeriana officinalis (above) is a captivating herbaceous perennial with clusters of pale pink or white, fragrant flowers. Attractive fern-like foliage. Prefers full sun to partial shade in moist, well-drained soil. Valerian's sweet, musky fragrance, reminiscent of vanilla, making it a wonderful addition to any scented garden. Dame's Violet Hesperis matronalis (pictured below) is a charming biennial or short-lived perennial that graces the garden with clusters of fragrant flowers in shades of purple, pink, and white. This versatile plant thrives in full sun to partial shade and adapts to various soil types. Emitting a sweet and spicy fragrance, Dame's Violet attracts butterflies, bees, and other pollinators from late spring to early summer, Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) is a versatile plant that can thrive in both sun and partial shade. It prefers moist or damp soil, making it suitable for rain gardens, pond edges, or moist meadows. It produces clusters of creamy white flowers with a sweet, honey-like fragrance. Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium caeruleum) is an attractive perennial that prefers partial shade and well-drained soil. It forms clumps of fern-like foliage and bears clusters of blue, bell-shaped flowers in late spring or early summer. It can tolerate some dryness but prefers consistently moist soil. Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) is a tall perennial that thrives in full sun or partial shade. It prefers moist to wet soil and can be grown near ponds or in rain gardens. It produces pale pink flowers with a subtle fragrance and has medicinal properties associated with its roots. Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) is a shade-tolerant plant that prefers partial shade to full shade. It has lacy foliage and bears umbels of small white flowers in early summer. Sweet cicely prefers moist, well-drained soil but can tolerate some dryness once established. Betony Stachys officinalis (above) is a hardy perennial that thrives in full sun or partial shade. It prefers well-drained soil and produces spikes of purple flowers in summer. Betony can tolerate dry conditions but performs best in moderately moist soil. Indulge in the captivating scents of our top 10 native UK herbaceous perennials. From delicate sweetness to timeless elegance, these plants bring allure and beauty to any garden. With unique aromas and distinctive scents, they create a fragrant oasis. Discover these enchanting perennials, tailored to various garden conditions, and transform your space into a fragrant paradise that delights both you and wildlife.

Bellis perennis, commonly known as the common daisy or English daisy, is a popular flowering plant belonging to the Asteraceae family. It is native to Europe and western Asia, and has been introduced to other parts of the world as an ornamental plant. In this blog, we will explore the distribution of the common daisy, the insects that use it as a food plant, and its unique floral structure. When I say distribution I don't mean all over your lawn. I am of course referring to it's global or geographical spread. I once visited a garden where the "lawn" was little more than moss with some fine leaved grasses in patches that was mown to within an inch of it's life. The chap proudly announced that 'Any daisy shows its head in here, and the mower comes straight out.' The image above shows quite clearly what he was missing out on. Not only that, how much must he hate bees? Distribution of the Common Daisy: The common daisy is a widespread plant, found across Europe, western Asia, and parts of North America. It is commonly found in grasslands, meadows, lawns, and roadside verges. The plant prefers well-drained soil and full sun exposure. https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:184409-1 Green shows natural distribution. Purple shows introduction. Insects that use the Common Daisy as a Food Plant: The common daisy is an important food source for many insects, including bees, butterflies, and hoverflies. Bees are the primary pollinators of the plant, and the nectar-rich flowers attract many different species of bees, including bumblebees, honeybees, and solitary bees. The leaves of the plant are also eaten by the larvae of some moth species, such as the grey pug and the small white wave. Floral Structure of the Common Daisy: The common daisy has a unique floral structure that sets it apart from other plants in the Asteraceae family. The flower head, which appears as a single flower, is actually made up of many small flowers called florets. Each floret has a yellow disc in the center and white petals around the outside. The yellow disc contains both male and female reproductive structures, while the white petals are sterile. Similar flowers Two other native UK wild flowers are oxeye daisy and corn chamomile. Their flowers are both similar in structure to the common daisy, though the plants themselves set them apart from the low growing daisy. We are all familiar with the tight rosette of oval, ground hugging leaves that form the common daisy plant. The oxeye daisy Leucanthemum vulgare has an oval leaf also but with a more serrated edge. They also grow to 50cm plus which is way beyond the scope of our delightful daisy. The corn chamomile Anthemis arvensis, has feathery slender stems. It is also an annual and is usually found in recently disturbed land. The other two are perennial and prefer not to be disturbed. The common daisy is a beautiful and important plant that supports a diverse range of insect species. Its unique floral structure is fascinating and highlights the complexity of the natural world. Whether you come across it in a meadow or in your own backyard, take a moment to appreciate the beauty and importance of the common daisy. By all means show children how to make a daisy chain, but don't be the idiot who gets the mower out and cuts off all the heads so there's no food for our important insects. John Grundy established Wilderness Tamed in 2012 after working for the National Trust for six years. Combining horticultural knowledge with conservation and habitat management skills a niche business offering wildlife friendly gardening services. Specialising in ponds, wild flower meadows and lawns as well as broader habitat maintenance. John also travels extensively teaching the art of scything.

How to attract more wildlife to your garden using native plants as well as exotics. If you've been wondering how to use native wild flowers more effectively in your garden then the answer is here. It doesn't always mean turning one corner of your garden into a wild untamed messy plot, that you soon lose interest in. Many of our native wild flowers are highly decorative, scented, and hardy enough to withstand whatever our weather can throw at them. From tall majestic spires, umbells and gently waving stems to compact ground cover plants, our native flora can fill any niche. So read on, get inspired and start planning what changes you can make in your beds and borders. It's so easy to grow native plants. Let's be totally honest, they've been around long enough, they can adapt to anything. Field scabious, yellow loosestrife and achillea blend together perfectly in a mixed herbaceous border. Sow the seeds where you want them to grow. Buying seeds of individual species is the cheapest way to go. But plug plants work just as well and give you a slight head start. Sowing most perennial native seeds requires a minimum of effort on your part. slightly disturb the soil with a hand fork, hoe or rake. Scatter a pinch of seed. Firm in (press the seed onto the soil surface with the back of your hand or a flat piece of wood) then go and have a cuppa. You've earned it. Any time of year is fine but optimum germination will happen between March and October when the soil is warm. Jacob's Ladder is a fine native perennial. Growing in wood edges and hedgerows as well as open meadows. Many hybrids are available but you can't improve on something nature has already perfected. What do you want from your garden? I want to relax more, do less weeding and enjoy my garden. Ask yourself what your priorities are for your garden. Attracting more wildlife should be up there in the top three. Purple loosestrife throws up tall spires of deep magenta flowers. Perfect for the back of a border along with spiked speedwell (seen in the background) delphiniums and lupins. It all begins with the soil. A decent loamy soil is ideal for most native and exotic plants, but if you have clay, sandy or chalky soil don't give up. Research what species will tolerate those conditions and spend money investing in what will thrive rather than wasting money on what will die. The plants you choose will have an effect on the insects that visit. they in turn can attract other wildlife. Birds, amphibians and reptiles and small mammals. Your challenge as a wildlife friendly gardener is to create an ecosystem in your garden. One in which the wildlife contributes to the overall management of the space you share together. Meadow Clary is a multi stemmed free flowering native that blends well into a herbaceous perennial border. Bees love it! So what do you do after the seeds go in? You sit back and wait. It's incredible how quickly native plants will establish and flower. They contribute massively to an already established herbaceous perennial border. I'm not one for large blocks or drifts, as used to be the fashion in garden design. Nature doesn't really operate that way. Dot in new plants in a more random array. Pinpoints of colour dappled throughout your border will create a more natural looking meadow style theme. Greater knapweed is a stunning native perennial that flowers for months attracting butterflies and bees. How do you maintain your native wild flower border? A simple cut down at the end of the year, just as you would do in any herbaceous perennial border. Obviously I use a scythe, but shears can do the same job. Even hedge cutters. Be careful if you've used stakes or canes to support some of your exotic perennials, such as delphiniums. Remove these before wading in and cutting everything down. Remove all the cut plant matter and compost it. Shouldn't take too long depending on the size of your border. Then I would recommend another cuppa. Because you're worth it. Where do you get your native wild flowers from? Well, you can get them from Wilderness Tamed of course. There's a variety of individual species, as well as blended mixes, that do well in most soil types and provide nectar for pollinating insects. They also look stunning in a border. Buy yours here now all picture credits go to me John Grundy. Taken in my own garden and some of my customers gardens. Top image shows native wild carrot and vipers bugloss in an established border. John Grundy established Wilderness Tamed in 2012 after working for the National Trust for six years. Combining horticultural knowledge with conservation and habitat management skills a niche business offering wildlife friendly gardening services. Specialising in ponds, wild flower meadows and lawns as well as broader habitat maintenance. John also travels extensively teaching the art of scything.

If you have to ask that question, you really really need to read this. Of all the vital features that should be incorporated into a garden, the pond is top of the list. You will benefit, trust me on this, I'll explain more as we go on. But also the creatures around you will enjoy the pond as well. A pond increases the range of plants you can grow in your garden. Sweet! A pond reduces the amount of lawn you have to mow every week. Bonus!! A pond attracts birds without the expense and mess of putting up feeders. Boom!!! A pond creates habitat for a range of invertebrates and amphibians. Nailed it !!!! As I've mentioned in some of my Youtube videos, as well as in other pages on this site, all our houses are built on what used to be valuable habitat for wildlife. Maybe yours was built on an old brownfield site or an over grazed horse paddock. Perhaps some scrubbed over waste land was cleared to make way for your estate. Maybe (like they've done for HS2) an ancient woodland or wildlife trust reserve was ploughed up so that some greedy developer could squeeze in as many shoddily built houses as possible. OK, now that we all feel really guilty about the roof that's over our heads, I'll elaborate on why a pond is incredibly important for wildlife and ourselves. I briefly listed the benefits to wildlife up above and we've established that our homes are built where once was a paradise. As least a paradise to a select variety of species. Yes, even a scrubbed up wasteland provides a place to live for a range of insects, birds, small mammals and possibly reptiles and amphibians. So as a wildlife friendly gardener, like what I am, we all need to think about repaying those species with a space they can share with us. Ponds have been declining across the globe, not just in the UK. Ponds and wetlands have been lost to development in building, agriculture, infrastructure and drainage schemes over the last one hundred years with a noticeable rapid increase in the last twenty years. All this human activity puts pressure on the natural world. Gardens need to be reimagined as the next nature reserves. Let's face it, they're in no short supply. So how does this help you? From my own experience and the testimonies of many of my customers over the years, having a pond or two in your garden makes the space so much more relaxing. The water need not be moving either. None of my own ponds have pumps or filters in them, moving the water round. Just the sunlight shining on the water can transfix our gaze and take our minds away from the stresses of daily life. I have three ponds at home and one sits right next to my decking. I have spent hours swinging in the hammock on the edge of the deck, staring into this shallow pond watching the numerous newts, courting and feeding during the Spring months. Frogs will bask on the pond edge in the grass chilling out with me during the summer. Dragon and damsel flies drift about on sunny days looking for other insects to hunt and places to lay their eggs. I have even had a water shrew come through on occasion, investigating the ponds for food in the form of tadpoles and invertebrates. Birds enjoy bathing in the ponds and I do have a heron visits in the early spring. It does take a few frogs but to be honest I haven't noticed a massive decline in population. The larger pond hosts about sixty to seventy adult frogs per year. This is a purely natural part of the food web and so the heron is left to it's own devises. If it were a cat however (Not native to the UK) I'd be out giving chase. Being next to water is something even the most street hardened cynic can enjoy. We naturally gravitate to water in all it's forms. The sea, rivers and streams, ponds and lakes. Who doesn't enjoy a picnic by a rivers edge or overlooking a lake. Watching the sunset over the ocean with a drink in our hands. So having even a small water feature in our garden can help massively with calming our souls. Watch this short film of a pair of palmate newts courting in my pond and tell me you haven't found it enchanting. Especially the bit where the second male comes barging in. Much like the ponds out in the countryside don't have pumps and filters, your garden pond needn't either. Yet naturally occurring ponds seem to be able to remain clear and look healthy and filled with life. How do they manage that without a filter system? As mentioned before in other videos and lessons, balance is the key. A good mix of plant and animal life will contribute to keeping a pond crystal clear. Plant roots are a natural filter. Their roots guzzling up nutrients that would otherwise build up to unhealthy levels in the water. Invertebrates help keep the pond clear and tidy of leaf debris by munching away at rotting vegetation. Water fleas (Daphnia) feed on single cells of algae to prevent blanket weed choking the pond. Look again at the video above and notice how many daphnia are drifting about in the water......There's thousands of 'em! So the key trick to having a very low maintenance pond is balance. Having a good selection of different plants, invertebrates and amphibians is essential. The video below shows an adult frog and tadpoles enjoying the clear, warm shallows of one of my garden ponds. The margins are densely planted with a range of native plants. DO NOT INTRODUCE FISH. Fish will create more mess than they clear up, require a filtration system fed by a pump, needing electricity to run it, increasing maintenance and they will also eat most of the plants and other wildlife in the pond. Even the little sticklebacks we fished for as kids in our local streams and ponds will cause havoc in a small garden pond. Steer clear.

A guide to choosing the right plant. Where to grow them and how to prune them. The trick to choosing clematis is simple. The more stems the better, growing from the base and branching strongly and evenly. Ignore single stemmed specimens with clumps of growth on the top third or half of the plant. They have not been well trained in the nursery and unless you prune them hard back to start afresh then they will never develope into anything special. The Good The Bad and the Ugly Below left we see a fresh looking multi stemmed young clematis in a 5 litre pot grown on a 90cm cane. It hasn't yet reached the top of the cane, but that doesn't matter it means it's been nipped out several times while growing. This is how it has so many stems from the base. Next to it is a vigorous single stemmed montana which is heading off the top of the cane. Plenty of signs of fast growth, but I wouldn't buy it because in order to turn this one into a decent plant you'd have to lop most of that off. The plant below is a hopeless mess. If you see this in a garden centre walk past it. It isn't worthy of the compost heap. It shows signs of neglect and it has obviously been left over from the previous year as the lower growth is woody. Now this is a splendid looking group 1 clematis. Plenty of stems coming from the base and branching growth coming off those stems at varying points up the stems. This will turn into a strong, full plant. This little chap is a late flowering group 3 specimen. Again don't worry that it hasn't yet reached the giddy heights of the 90cm cane. In fact to be honest after buying this and getting it home I'd pinch out the top node on each stem to get it to bud out even more. This delays the flowering to later in the year, but no problem, it also means you'll get twice or three times as many flowers then you would if you'd not pinched it out. Training and Growing clematis The classic way the British public grow clematis is throught a trellis on a wall or fence. This of course bares no resemblance to how they grow in their native habitats of South East Europe and the Far East. They are found as ground cover or scrambling through other shrubs and trees. Let's be totally honest, the foliage and stems are not particularly interesting to look at except for the Armandii and Cartmanii. So why parade them on a trellis? Most people allow them to grow straight to the top of a narrow vertical or fan trellis. The result, like the one in the picture below, is a straggly bare stem with a bunch of tangled growth on top with a few flowers. Now these chaps, I trained up a tripod of canes. There are three plants per pot and the canes are 2 metres high. Admittedly not very natural but they were used as examples of how to train them. These are both group 3 clematis. "Madame Julia Correvon" on the left and "Romantika" on the right. These are the late summer flowering ones that you cut hard back in spring. As each new stem reached it's second pair of leaves I nipped out the leading bud. The result, two buds from each joint. Once these attain the same stage I nip out again. Do this at least four times as the plants grow. You can see the results. Flowers all the way up the stem, bundles of growth and virtually no visible canes. Training on wires horizontally is probably the best way to grow clematis against a wall if you really do have to. Watch this video to see what I'm on about. Then come straight back here... Clematis Polish Spirit growing through a Philadelphus. The supporting shrub flowers in May June and is followed by the late flowering clematis which belongs to the group 3's. This group offers an abundance of flowers late into Autumn. Clematis "Madam Julia Correvon" growing through Berberis Juliannae. Again late flowers adding interest to an otherwise dull shrub. Planting and Growing Conditions This is one of the bits of the job that many people stumble on. It is often said that clematis like their roots shaded and cool with their tops in the sun. While this is true to some extent, in order to shade the roots I have seen people using slabs of slate, flat stones and cobbles. What loves to live under these things? What loves to chew new clematis shoots? Yup, slugs. So if you want to shade the roots because you've insisted on growing your clematis unnaturally up against a wall, then use a thick layer of sharp alpine grit. This will create the damp, cool conditions beneath which the roots will enjoy, but will deter slugs and snails. Clematis are greedy feeders when grown in pots or tubs and require regular liquid or slow release granules applying. Not so in the ground, unless your soil is pure sand and all nutrients are leached into the bedrock several feet below by the slightest shower. There will be enough nutrients in the soil to fulfill their needs. Plus the roots will be encouraged to grow deeper and wider in search of them. If you are going to plant against a wall make sure the root ball is at least 45cms away from the wall itself to reduce the drying action of the stone/brick. Being porous, moisture will be leached out from the soil into the wall and clematis will suffer from lack of water. When done correctly a clematis grown against a wall can be quite spectacular, like this Perle D'Azure growing in the Helmsley Walled Garden. The Pruning Groups 1 Flower early in the year like Macropetalla, Alpina and Montana. Prune as much as required as soon as flowering is finished. 2 Flower Early Summer and often again in late summer. Large flowers like Nelly Moser, Lasurstern and the hybridised double flowering Multi Blue. Prune lightly in March. They produce flower buds after only 4 to 6 pairs of leaves. (Personally I think they're a bit of a faff and wouldn't have one given) 3 Flower mid to late Summer. Produce a mass of flowers like Viticellas, Texensis and Tanguticas. Prune hard down in March almost to 3 to 4 buds above ground level, (except Tanguticas. Just prune them lightly to keep them in check). The group 3's produce flower buds after a dozen or more pairs of leaves. (Really easy to prune and give the best value for money) Where did I learn all of this? I worked for 2 years in a specialist Clematis nursery in County Durham. While there I worked predominantly in the tunnel where the group 1 & 3 clematis were grown. They seldom sold due to previous neglect and lack of pruning. I took them under my wing and began a regime of nipping out young growth to encourage multiple stems. Sales improved dramatically after a bit of care and attention.

I hear people ask for low maintenance gardens with big lawns and few beds and borders. It can take some convincing to make them think that actually, the reverse would be much less work for them. Or me come to that. Lets think seriously about how much time is spent on keeping a formal lawn looking good. Then think about how much time is spent on a shrub or perennial border. The grass will require mowing at least once a week during the summer months. How often do perennials need cutting back? That’s right, once a year. What about shrubs? Well maybe once a year. Some of the slower growing shrubs perhaps less often. Now I know you’re going to say the time spent weeding borders adds up as well. True, weeds in a border are a problem. But what about when the border is well established and brimming with colour from the plants you actually want? Less room for weeds. The pros and cons of hoeing and digging weeds against mulching or using organic herbicides will fill another article. I will slip in the extra lawn care tasks at this point. Aerating, scarifying, top dressing and seasonal weed and feed routines. I would hope that after some careful thought and reflection, plus some calculations, you can see how much more work a formal lawn is. Not only should we take the hours spent on lawn maintenance into account, but also the cost. Fuel for mowers and strimmers. Servicing of these machines. Oil and spares. Even electric grass cutters are using fuel, and let’s be honest, they are such a faff to get out and get switched on. Even while mowing you are constantly trying to avoid the cable. Can we cut down our reliance on machinery to carry out simple tasks like cutting grass? I use a scythe with a meter long meadow blade to get a fine cut, on several of the lawns I manage. I also prefer scything long grass, weeds and rough vegetation. This picture shows a lawn that was neglected through the Spring Lockdown of 2020 during the Covid outbreak. After so many weeks of growth, the only way to get it back under control was with the trusty, none polluting scythe. Some of the newer breeds of push along mowers from Fiskars, Brill and Al-Ko are excellent, easy to use and efficient. Not to mention all the benefits to the environment and your health. This picture below, shows a lawn kept in tip top condition with a Fiskars momentum lawn mower. The clippings are not collected, but allowed to drop back into the grass to feed the soil. This is called 'mulch mowing.' Now what about the weeding of lawns? Where do I start? Moss, daisies, clover, dandelions, creeping buttercup, and black medic the list is endless. So many of the lawns I see are moss havens. And you know, to be honest it doesn’t worry me. The Japanese embrace moss in all it’s many and varied forms. Why cant we? The reason moss and other so-called lawn weeds thrive is because the majority of British gardeners cut their grass far too short. Scalping the grass down to the base reveals yellow, chlorophyll free culm. Not only that but they remove the cut material. Yup! that's a bad thing. 'Cut and remove' is how you manage a wild flower meadow, to deplete the nutrient levels in the soil. Wild flowers love that! Grass does not! Bearing all this in mind are you not inclined to agree that maintaining a formal lawn is an awful lot of work? There is of course an alternative to having acres of stripes. Sowing an area of native wild flowers and grasses and allowing them to just grow will save you so much backache and money. Sit back and enjoy the new encounters you will experience every day as new buds emerge and flower. As the area develops, annuals give way to the perennials. So not only will you witness changes through the season but also from year to year. The wildlife in your garden will increase with bees, hoverflies, butterflies as well as grass pollinating moths and birds. You can relax admiring your contribution to nature while listening to your neighbours wrestling with their mowers. After years of filling my garden to the brim with as many exotic shrubs and plants as possible, my garden has undergone a transformation in the last few years. After digging out the shrubs and perennials, I have introduced native wildflowers and plants as well as native shrubs. This photo shows my front garden in the summer of 2014. The change in how much time I spend working in the garden is amazing. I spend so much more of my time in simply watching and enjoying what goes on in the garden around me. Isn’t that how it should be? I hope this has given some of you food for thought and inspiration to perhaps make changes in your own gardens. They needn't be huge or budget shattering. Even a change in how you manage a lawn can make a huge difference to what will grow. Raise the height of cut on your mower, allowing the daisies and clover to flower. You'll be pleasantly surprised at what will come into the garden as a result of new pollen sources being allowed to thrive. I would encourage a little caution when choosing what are often called wildflower mixes in garden centres and nursery catalogues. Many that I have seen often contain exotic species. These are added for their colour or insect attracting qualities. But beware, some exotic flowers act as a narcotic to insects, making them addicted to the flower at the expense of all surrounding, more worthy blooms. Buddliea is guilty of this. I shall write another article in which I'll list naughty foreign types and recommend a native plant or shrub that will easily substitute.

There are many simple things you can do in your garden to help wildlife. ​ Ponds are an obvious choice if you have the space. But even a small container in the corner of a #garden can offer a place for small #amphibians and aquatic invertebrates to thrive. A #pond also increases the choice of interesting #plants you can grow. A log pile in a sheltered corner will offer safety and foraging opportunities for small #mammals, #amphibians and #reptiles as well as #invertebrates. Even small #birds like wren, robin and hedge sparrow will nest in a good compact log or brash pile. A dead hedge will provide nesting and shelter for birds as well as other creatures. ​A #bug box or #insect hotels like this one will be useful for attracting predator insects and solitary #bees. It doesn't need to be elaborate. A simple bundle of small twigs stuck into a hedge or attached to a fence will suit many insects. They aren't fussy! ​Children will be fascinated by the wealth of #animals that come to make use of the facilities you provide. Planting #wildflowers will encourage lots of pollinating insects like #bees, #hoverflies and #butterflies as well as #moths #Dragonfly and #damselflies will swoop by during the summer months laying eggs in the water and catching smaller insects on the wing. Native hedging plants and trees will also offer much more opportunities for wildlife. As well as places for birds to hide and roost in overnight, they can forage for berries in Autumn and Winter. Many native hedging plants produce flowers in Spring and Summer for insects. A dry stone wall is an incredible feature to have in your garden. Not only do they look amazing, but there are masses of opportunities for small animals to take shelter in a dry stone wall. I hope you have found this useful and are inspired to add something to your own garden to help wildlife. Let's be honest, before our houses were here, there was probably a thriving community of plants and animals. Giving them something back is the least we can do.